The winter nobody mentions: cold, damp and unheated

Our first December here was the moment we realised we had misunderstood something fundamental. Eighteen degrees and sunshine outside, and us at the kitchen table in fleece jackets with cold feet. A friend from Málaga summed it up: "Winter here isn't outside. It's indoors."

Why the houses are so cold

Building on this coast is done for summer. That means thick walls without insulation, large windows, tiles instead of wood, often single glazing and rarely any central heating. In August that's wonderful — the flat stays cool. From December to February the effect reverses. The walls give everything back overnight, the tiles are freezing, and whatever you heat during the day is gone by morning.

Then there's the humidity. We're by the sea, and in winter it rains. Damp air at sixteen degrees feels considerably colder than dry air at sixteen degrees — and it's the real reason you're cold.

The dehumidifier was our best purchase

Before we talked about heating, we got the air dry. A medium-sized dehumidifier that pulls several litres out of the air per day — in the first winter it was hard to believe how much water accumulates.

What it gives you: the perceived temperature rises noticeably without heating a single degree. Laundry dries indoors again at all. And mould has nothing to work with. We keep the living area below 60 per cent humidity and haven't had a patch on an external wall since.

Heating: what works

• Air conditioning in heating mode (bomba de calor). The most efficient solution if a unit exists. It draws considerably less power than an electric radiator and heats up fast. Downside: dry, noisy air from above, and it heats the room, not the walls.
• Bottled gas heater. Common among locals, warms quickly and cheaply. But it produces moisture — so only with ventilation, and not in the bedroom.
• Oil radiator. Good for one spot, e.g. a child's room for an hour or two before bed. Too expensive as continuous heating.
• Rugs. Sounds like nothing, is the cheapest comfort gain available. Tiles under children's feet are half the reason everyone is cold.

The electricity bill

Electricity is expensive in Spain, and in January you heat with it. Our bill doubles in winter compared with spring — that's true of every family we know. What helps:

• Check time-of-use tariffs. Power is considerably cheaper at night and at weekends. Moving the washing machine, dishwasher and water heater into those windows makes a visible monthly difference.
• Check your connected load. Part of the bill is a standing charge based on contracted capacity. Many flats are contracted higher than necessary. Reducing it saves every month for a one-off fee.
• Not everything at once. Run the oven, kettle, air conditioning and washing machine together and you'll learn the sound of the trip switch. With five people that happens faster than you'd think.

Everyday life in winter

We changed our habits, and that was more effective than any appliance. We ventilate briefly and vigorously when the sun is out, and keep things shut otherwise. We close the shutters as soon as it gets dark — they're a surprisingly good insulating layer. We have one room that is genuinely warm, and that's where the evening happens. And we're outside a lot during the day, because it is simply warmer out there than in.

Which is the loveliest side of this season, incidentally: winter on the Costa del Sol is wonderful outdoors. Twenty degrees in January, empty beaches, mountains in deep green. We hike more in these months than in summer, and the children are at the sea in T-shirts at Christmas. You just have to have the house under control.

Our winter kit

What comes out of the cupboard every November since year two: the dehumidifier, two rugs, thick curtains for the big windows, duvets that would pass as winter duvets in Germany, slippers for all five and an electric blanket for our bed. Together it isn't a big investment and it is the difference between enduring and living.

Common questions

Does it really get cold on the Costa del Sol?

Outside, rarely below 8 °C at night. The problem is indoors: uninsulated walls, tiled floors and high humidity make 15 °C in the living room far less pleasant than 15 °C would be further north.

What helps against mould?

A dehumidifier, short bursts of ventilation on dry days, moving furniture away from external walls and ventilating the bathroom rigorously. We keep humidity below 60 per cent and nothing happens.

What do locals heat with?

Mostly the air conditioning in heating mode, plus gas or electric heaters where needed. Old houses still have the mesa camilla — a table with a blanket and a heat source underneath. Sounds odd, works.

Everything here is our own experience, not legal advice. Authorities change rules, prices and forms constantly — always check the official site of the relevant office before an appointment.